Hi everyone, holiday is just around the corner and i hope you have done your Christmas shopping already to avoid the rush. Well if you ask me i have received one of my Christmas gifts to myself really ahead of time.
If you have been following me on my Instagram or if you have read my recent blog post, you would know that i’m starting to focus more on my interest which is the classic menswear. I know a lot of you wouldn’t jump onboard with me here and i totally understand. This is actually the right direction for The Filo Dapper and i’m very pleased to have crossed this path in the process of the development of The Filo Dapper.
Join me if you still find the new chapter of this blog interesting as we will talk more about the world of timeless fashion.
Late last month i have commissioned my first Made to Measure trousers from Skabo and i’m really satisfied with the outcome. Follow me as i explain the details about this beautifully tailored trousers.
This was my first attempt of having a more classic look and i decided to start it with a pair of trousers. So i thoroughly selected which fabric and colour i should use. I decided to go for a wool in Super 130’s and in a muted shade of green. If you are wondering what in the world is that word Super and the number 130’s, well it’s a marketing strategy used by mills but it commonly denotes the fineness of a given wool. It starts from 100’s up to 200’s, but it doesn’t completely mean that the highest number is the best. Personally i think it just depends on where and how often you will be wearing it. Let’s just put it this way, Super 200’s is when you eat in a Michelin star restaurant, something special but definitely not for everyday. So the Super 130’s are ideal for me something in the middle, durable, soft and falls nicely. For a year now i have been drawn deeply in to the classic menswear look, hence the the updated classic as represented by a fuller-cut high rise trousers.This is something that i personally think is timeless, proper and classic way of wearing your trousers not slim fit. Now for the details, i have always been interested in having a pleated trousers. I’ve tried two pleats but for this one i chose to have just one in reverse pleat which is known for being associated with the Italian style.. Others have it for style but in reality it’s more of a function, to have an extra room and having it stay in its proper position when you sit down.
I also opted to have buttons for braces. This is something that you rarely see nowadays but it really keeps the trousers in the right position no matter what you do that’s why i always make sure to have it in most of my trousers.
Another detail is having cuffs on the bottom part of my trousers, also known as the “turn ups”. This is something i add to most of my newly commissioned trousers. It is usually a mark of a quality tailored pants and definitely a more dressier choice. It also helps in adding weight to the trousers to make it fall nicely all the time.This usually goes together with a front creased trousers but not all the time.
Another one is the side adjusters on both sides of the trousers. It could be an added flair but normally it is used for achieving a better fit incase you lost weight.
And lastly a half break also known as the medium break. Break refers to the point where the trousers touches the shoes.It also affects the overall appearance of your look. Half break is traditional, proper, nothing fancy nor trendy like the short ones that you see a lot of nowadays.
So there you go, something that you can apply the next time you plan on having a tailored trousers. Some details that are also advantageous to know the next time you encounter this in your life. I really love and enjoy learning more about the classic menswear and i’d be happy to share the little knowledge that i know about the beautiful history of the true menswear.
Have a nice weekend everyone and keep it classy.
Wearing: Made To Measure Trousers by Skabo
Sports Jacket by Boglioli Napoli
Made To Measure Shirt by Skabo
Silk Tie by Cornelliani
Braces by Viola Milano via Skabo
Pocket Squares by Drake’s via Skabo
Double Monk Straps by Paul Evans